an octopus and stuff

I don't really have too much too report on, unfortunately.
The vertigo gradually left a few weeks ago, hopefully for good. I was starting to fear it would be something I'd have to deal with the rest of my life.
Riding the bus was the worst part of that experience. I'd be feeling fine, only to have my brain rattled by the one hour trip home on the ragged roads of Honolulu. Not so fun fact: The conditions of Honolulu's roads rank third worst in the nation, behind LA and somewhere else. The roads around Waikiki are fine of course, but everywhere else looks pretty neglected.  I'm constantly dodging potholes on my bike.
 Not as bad as Costa Rica's though.


So with that behind me, I've been able to return to the water a few times.
I went snorkeling a couple of weeks ago. I was swimming across a reef and noticed a piece of algae float up a couple of feet ahead of me. The algae then spread out eight tentacles and propelled itself further ahead of me. I followed it a few yards until it found a rock to hide under, not without squirting out a tiny puff of ink first towards my general direction.
It was an octopus, a young one I assume, about the size of a softball. Still, I was excited, as it was one of the sea creatures I had on my mental list to spot, along with the sea turtles I swam with in Hanauma Bay.
I hadn't know about their camouflage ability until I saw it first hand. It was literally the same color as the algae, with patterns and everything. Once it detached from the rock it turned a deep purple.

It looked like the one in this picture I found on google images, except bigger:




I also moved recently, only about a mile but closer to the beach and a stone's throw away from Diamond Head. Still in Kaimuki, further south though closer to Kahala. The ocean breeze keeps the air cooler, which I appreciate since my last room was very hot, being on top of the hill near a windless valley.
Kahala mall is right down the street. Diamond Head beach is very close too. I take the bus in the morning straight to work nearly from my doorstep, and get dropped off there too. Previously, I had to transfer once in the morning, and ride my bike about a half mile home from the closest bus stop. Not a big deal, but riding a bike uphill after sitting still for an hour on a bus isn't great fun, neither do I miss getting off at the transfer center downtown to be greeted by the stench of homeless people. That sounds bad, but a lot of them congregate in the bus transfer area downtown, and it's almost unbearable to inhale through the nose at times.

The homeless population is very visible in Honolulu. There is much to discuss regarding that topic but I will save it for another entry.

I love this time of year in Texas and it's strange not being there. Hopefully I can visit soon.
Lately I haven't been going to beach or exploring much, but that will change.
A visit to the North Shore is up next on the itinerary, so look for an entry on that within the next couple of weeks.

summer's here

March was a wet rainy cool cloudy month. As wintery as Hawaii gets.

Since April 1st though, nothing but sunshine. Bright sunshine. There's a difference between winter sunshine and summer sunshine. And heat. In January, it was hot, then seemed to cool off a few degrees in February and March. Now we're back to being hot. I work inside of an igloo, so by the time I get home to my non air conditioned apartment, I'm ready to defrost. 

I finally went surfing for the first time since the first week I was here, crazy I know. Being afflicted by vertigo for a month really kept me out of the water and in bed. 

Not what I came here for. 

I've only surfed three times so far and probably only about a dozen decent waves. 

On Sunday, I woke up, felt my natural balance and energy had returned for the first time in awhile, went to church to get my worship on, then headed to Waikiki. 

Wai Waikiki? Because you can rent boards right on the beach. I'd much rather surf Diamond Head, but since it's a protected area there are no little surf board rental shacks. Way bigger south shore swells off Diamond Head. Waikiki is fun though if you can stand the crowds, on the beach and in the ocean. The waves weren't coming often but when they did they were nice and the rest of the ocean was pretty smooth. 

The summer is when the swells get big on the south end of the island. During the winter is when Oahu's famous north shore gets its massive swells. Unfortunately I was unable to go up there when they were really big. I would love to get good enough to surf some of those giants or the world famous banzai Pipeline. 

Catching waves in Hawaii is tougher than Costa Rica for a number of reasons. One is you have to paddle out much further. In Tamarindo I taught myself how to surf by catching the little baby waves that came right up to shore. Great beach for beginners. Once you move past beginner you can paddle out further or go to a nearby beach with bigger swells. 

The ocean floor here isn't sandy either, for the most part. You really want to stay on your board or risk stepping on a sea urchin, getting needles implanted in your foot, or cut yourself on coral, which I've done before. As I've explained before, the cuts take awhile to heal because the coral is living and contains all kinds of bacteria. 

Soon I will be moving very close to Diamond Head beach and hopefully buying a board not long after that to enjoy the world class waves there. 

best burgers in town

Kiawe Grill. Those are the only two words you need to know when looking for a delicious cheeseburger.
Skip the overpriced and underwhelming burger joints on Waikiki like Cheeseburger in Paradise or Teddy's Bigger Burgers, which is a popular local chain but overrated in my opinion.

I fancy myself a burger aficionado so trust me on this. Kiawe Grill has the best burgers in all of Honolulu, maybe even Hawaii.
Choose from regular ground beef, angus, kobe beef, buffalo, ostrich, venison, salmon, pork or chicken. And yes they're all called burgers, it's a salmon burger not sandwich. So far I've only tried the double cheeseburger(make it a combo for 8.99) and it's amazing, better than Five Guys and probably In-N-Out as well. The fries won't blow your mind but they're pretty good too once they cool down. Big, thick wedges.
There are of course other menu options besides burgers, like BBQ chicken and shrimp as well as some local Asian dishes. There are four locations to chose from, the one I frequent is on King St.
Located in a nondescript plaza, seating is limited, only like 5 tables in the small dining area. The kitchen isn't much bigger. I only found out about this place through the Yelp app on my iPhone when I was looking for somewhere good to eat near Wal-Mart when I was done shopping. Now I go there every time I after grab something from Wally World. If you know me, you know I despise Wal-Mart and their evil empire, but there are limited places to buy certain things here so I have no choice.

Much like North Shore Grinds, Kiawe Grill is very mom and pop. The first time I went was around 3:30 pm on a weekday, and the lady taking the order woke up the grill cook who was napping at one of the booths to cook my burger. I love supporting local places like this. About three to five times a week I ate a place next to my home in Fort Worth called Pak-A-Pocket that serves the best gyros in Texas. I sent them a postcard last month telling them how much I missed their food. You can see it posted on their bulletin board.

What makes their burgers so tasty? The patties are cooked on a wood burning grill. The wood is Kiawe(pronounced kee-ah-vey), the name used in Hawaii for what is known as Mesquite wood on the mainland. It adds a nice smokey flavor. The meat itself is tender yet not too chewy. The toasted homemade bun strikes a nice balance between soft and crispy. The melted slices of American and Swiss cheese are heavenly gooey.

Local places are great. I didn't go to North Shore grinds for a good two weeks when I started my new job, because I usually ate their for lunch and they close at seven. I've since been back a few times for dinner, and the couple asked where I had been. They were happy to see me back and congratulated me on getting a job. Little things like that mean a lot when you're alone so far away from home. The first time I went to NSG I thought the wife was extremely unfriendly but it's just her demeanor, she's actually really nice to me now and I've even gotten her to smile. Many of the Yelp reviews mention her. She's quite a character.

Hopefully dear reader you enjoy good local eateries as much as I. Now you have two to try on your next visit to Hawaii.

A professional review of Kiawe Grill http://archives.midweek.com/content/columns/foodfinds_article/the_best_burgers_in_town/

Their website
http://www.kiawegrill.com/

march 22

I started my new job almost three weeks ago, and I'm really enjoying it.

I couldn't have asked for a better work family, everyone here is extremely nice. Last weekend I joined the company in a diabetes benefit walk around Kapiolani Park next to Waikiki.  Sand volleyball recently became an official NCAA sport, and the UH and HPU women's teams were nearby having at tournament at Queen's Beach Sandbox.

Shortly after I started my job, I woke up feeling a little dizzy one day. Eventually the dizziness progressed into an almost debilitating condition. I've had three doctors appointments since, and haven't been able to enjoy surfing, snorkeling, working out or even just going to the beach. The dizzy spells are awful and I don't wish them upon anyone. I'll spare you the medical details, but it makes it very hard to function sometimes and it can be scary traveling through a big city by yourself when you're disoriented, especially when you don't really know anyone. 

Last week I was so out of it I left my backpack at a bus stop. The backpack contained my passport, checks, bike chain, a poncho, my best sweater, and medicine. 

Luckily, a person with a good heart found it, and found a receipt with my phone number on it that I just happened to have in the bottom of one of the pockets. When I bought my new iPhone here, the service rep had written my account # and phone # on a blank slip of receipt paper. I met the girl that found my backpack the next day at her work a few blocks over from mine. That night she called me around 11 to ask me if I was single. 

There are many things I plan on doing soon that will make great blog entries with great pictures. 

First I plan on heading up to check out the north shore of Oahu for a weekend, hopefully next.

Then I would like to hop over to Maui and spend a weekend there on their north shore. Maui has a little bit of everything, and probably the nicest beaches in Hawaii. It has been rated "The Best Island in the World" by numerous publications.

People keep telling me if I'm not a fan of the big city life style, then I would love Maui. I'm looking forward to that experience. 

Kauia, known for its tropical rainforests, rivers, cliffs, canyons, and waterfalls, is next on the agenda. 

Then maybe I come home to visit Texas. Lots of things I miss about that great state, too many to list now, maybe for another entry. 

Fun Fact: Alaska and Hawaii both have the same record high temperature, 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

thunderstorms and rain in hawaii

Today is the first time in many days the sun has shown itself.
Last Saturday or Sunday, a big thunderstorm hit the area, and the rain lasted all week.
I feel really bad for anyone that booked their vacation for last week.
I can't imagine spending thousands to vacation at a tropical paradise only for it to be cloudy and rainy every single day

Storms like this are very rare here, I'm told. And since I've been here, the only rain I had experienced were light afternoon showers, and days were almost always sunny and hot.
I live in Kaimuki near Diamond Head, which is especially dry and hot.
It rained so much several areas flooded, being on top of a hill I didn't have to worry about it.
It even hailed in parts of the windward side near Kailua and supposedly on this side in Hawaii Kai too.
I also heard that there was supposed to be some snow on the biggest mountain on Big Island.
Apparently people try to ride sleds and stuff when it does this.

There was so much runoff from the rain that Hanuama Bay has been closed, where I went snorkeling a couple of weeks ago. I'm glad I went when I did because I imagine the visibility is not what it was now and won't be for awhile til all the rain, mud, and debris washes out.

Lightning is also a pretty rare sight in Hawaii, but when it strikes, you know.
A few strikes woke me wide awake during the first couple of nights of the storm.
My window was open and my apartments faces the mountains. The clap seems to boom twice, not sure if it is the echo off the mountains or what, but it is especially loud. Another strike I saw as I was waiting for the bus to go home after work was followed 5 seconds later by a loud clap that sounded like someone shooting a gun off near my ear.



A place near work called "Kava" has good sandwiches made with pink "Guava Bread".



The buses ran extremely slow and were extra packed during rush hour this week.
It can get so packed you can barely move, very unpleasant.







Note the rescue surfboard.

a little update

I officially start my job tomorrow, finally. 

Last Friday was the original start date, but they were too busy to train, so the start date was postponed til Monday.

No problem, since they insisted on paying me for a day's work anyway. 

I put the extra time to good use by spending the day at the beach. 

Hardest money I've ever earned. 

There's a little church in the neighborhood of Kahala down the hill south of me called Wesley United Methodist that I've gone to two weeks in a row. 

Only in Hawaii will you see people at church in board shorts. 

Diamond Head Beach

Diamond Head is a protected area just a few miles away from Waikiki.
The top of the mountain is a volcano crater.
The base is a a beautiful beach.



The beach is a state park as well as the crater.
This means no giant hotels, condos, boats, docks.
I prefer beaches like this.


While there is no denying Waikiki's beauty, it is just too damn crowded.
You are literally elbow to elbow with people laying out.
There's a busy street nearby emitting sounds of mopeds, honking horns, blaring sirens.
Good luck catching a wave without 6 other people fighting you for it.
Honestly, I'd rather spend a day at South Padre Island than Waikiki.
The beaches of the gulf on the mainland are so wide that you have all the space you could ever want. Take advantage.

The land around Diamond Head reminds me a lot of the Texas Hill Country during the summer. Dry and rocky. Specifically it reminds me a lot of Lake Travis in Austin.
It doesn't rain much in this area. Very hot and dry. I love how it reminds me of Texas in the summer.







There are nice swells on some days if you don't mind paddling really far out. Also the wind is usually pretty strong from the east here, so windsurfing is also an option.
There is some good snorkeling around the reef but you won't see anyone doing it besides me, unless they're spearfishing. The current is quite strong and the reef is very shallow in most spots.
Some mean looking spiky sea urchins call this area home.
There are also many beautiful fish to swim with if you know where to go. Not like Hanauma bay but still amazing for a public beach. The fish aren't quite as used to humans as those in H bay, one little guy saw me approach yesterday and darted behind a rock, only to peek his little fish face out from the side a few seconds later to see if I was still there. He quickly put his tiny fins in reverse to move back behind the rock.

DH is great if you're seeking solitude and peace and quiet. A lot of people come here by themselves to read, meditate and whatnot. The hillside backs up to the beach and features nothing but a couple of showers and a trail. Big million dollar homes are on either side of the beach.
This is where I would go to get away after a day of job hunting in Waikiki and downtown Honolulu.
No noise, no traffic, just the waves. You can hear yourself think or listen to music without loud boats or tour guides yelling out to recruit people. It doesn't seem like many people know about it or care to go.
I've only been by myself. My friends seem to prefer the busier beaches.
Most tourists that come here quarantine themselves in Waikiki beach, which is fine by me. It's nice being able to lay out without them walking by and kicking sand in your face.

If you want to see the rare and endangered Hawaiian monk seal, DH is your best bet. They beach themselves here to sleep. There are only 1300 Hawaiian monk seals remaining.
I had seen the signs warning about the sleeping seals but never saw one the first dozen or so times going there. Then one day right at the end of the path from the street to the beach I saw this guy:

Dead? Nah, just sleeping. 

The government takes their presence on the beach very seriously. It is a state and federal crime to disturb them while they sleep.
If one is spotted, some agency comes up and puts on do not disturb signs as well as a little barrier.
Try crossing this barrier if you dare and the whole beach will yell at you. I saw some guy dumb enough to try to approach the seal and just about everyone yelled at him.

The second seal I've ever seen at Diamond Head. This one was much larger.

The seals hardly move when they're sleeping, you can barely tell they're alive by watching them breathe.
Every now and then they'll roll over and stretch out their flipper.
The one guy in the picture up above was enormous. He had green markings all over his face from munching on algae though judging by his size it appears fish are the main staple of his diet.
If I were a seal, I'd much prefer this life than that of a SeaWorld seal. Swim, eat, sleep on the beach whenever I want, or perform stupid tricks for humans all day according to their schedule?

Local memorial 

Monument dedicated to Amelia Earhart, first person to fly solo from Hawaii to North America in 1933.

There's a jogging trail that runs around the base of the crater at the top of the hill over the beach.
Lots of people make good use of it. Sometimes I skip the bus and ride my bike to enjoy views like this: